Kashi/Varanasi/Banaras Travel Guide – Oldest holy city in the world

For first time in my life, I felt any Travel Guide doesnt do any justice to a place such as Kashi (Varanasi). This place is mystical, magical and yet so simple that it doesnt need any travle plan. But it just needs a curious explorer. However, I am keeping in mind that not everyone who may come to Kashi, will have that fertile mindset at that point. Hence, for people who may like to begin somewhere to understand why this place holds such a significance for Indians and Hindu’s, here is how you can explore this  oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, Kashi!

We spent 5 days and 6 nights in Kashi and took a 1.5 days trip to Mahakumbh in Prayagraj. 5 days is sufficient time to see the city, experience the magical temple viberations, try delicious food, enjoy the view of ghats and meandering in the bylanes of Kashi.

Kashi is the holyiest of the seven sacred cities (Sapta Puri) in India . There are in total 72000 temples in Kashi (big and small), representing 72000 nadis in human body. Of which 50% temples belong to bhagwan Shiva and his avatars while the rest 50% belong to mata Parvati and her avatars. (Yes, the movie name avatar is being taken from the “avatar” concept in hinduism.) Representing the male and female energy in a human body, called as Ardhanarishwar. Kashi is an important city for all 4 religions that birth in India; Hinduism, Jainism, Buddhism, and Sikhism.

Other Articles on Kashi/ Varanasi/ Banaras:

Kashi Travel guide	Kashi Temple Guide
Wall art of Kashi	Sarnath Travel Guide

Things to do in Kashi:

1. Take a boat ride of Kashi Ghaats: There are 84 ghats spread in 7kms and a traditional hand row boat ride is an ideal way to see the ghats and the energy it exuberates. You can pick any time of the day for this boat ride as each time of the day definitely gives different vibe. I prefer early morning and evening post sunset, especially during ghat aarti.
2. Experience aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghaat: Ghaat aarti is a daily ritual followed in evening as a prayer to maa Ganga (goddess) and the sun. This 45mins aarti is a moving experience and should be experienced by immersing oneself into it. Aarti starts at 7pm but people gather to get a spot at 5pm. You may sit on the steps of the Ghaats or may rent a boat and witness the aarti spectacle from front. If you want immersive experience than I suggest stick to steps as you will concentrate on the ritual then just feeling the urge of taking photos but in process missing on the experience.
3. Enjoy sunrise at Assi Ghaat: In my 7 days trip, I witnessed atleast 4 sunrises. I process was to arrive at 530am and get a good spot at ghaat, endlessly stare at the water and shoreline, watch the sun rise, enjoy a lovely lemon tea sold there, and thank mother nature for this life. The added detail at Assi ghaat is that it has morning bhajans conducted by volunteers from near around Universities, singing schools, or just singers who offer their voice.
4. Pray at Kashi Vishwanath temple: Kashi Vishwanath temple, is the place in Kashi to visit. However, there is a process for correct way to offer prayers at this temple. One is 1st supposed to pray at Kaal Bhairav temple and then visit Kashi temple. Refer this Kashi’s must visit temple list here.
5. Experience the chai in Kashi: The Chai made in Kashi hits so different. There are many tea stalls in kashi who has unique ways of making chai. The Chacha ki chai (location pin) is a 4th generation tea stall near Assi ghaats makes it with mixed spices and saffron.
6. Taste the street food of Kashi: Like across India, Kashi has some delicious street food to offer from chaat, to kachori, to jalebi, to rabdi, to malaiyo. Read detailed article on Kashi’s food guide here. A definite place to must try in Kashi is at Thatheri bazaar.
7. Take a hidden temple walking tour: I highly recommend seeing Kashi with a knowledgable local tour guide. There are many tours one can take here, such as Ghat walks, street food walks, however, a hidden temple tour is a must I feel. I recommend connecting with Laotse (8795220810) from Varanasi Walks for this tour. We did a 4 hour walking tour where I could see some of revered people’s home who contributed to Bharat’s spiritual and literary fabric. I wont tell you here and spoilt it for you. Incase you want to take the tour by yourself, read my article here.
8. Visit the Ramnagar fort palace: If you decide on this place just based on mere google images, then dont fall for that trap. Ramnagar fort is built on the tapasthali land of Rishi Ved Vyas from Mahabharat, and hence the name Ramnagar. This fort & palace is spread across massic 2500 acres is home to several palaces, temples and mueseums called Sarwati Bhavan that holds important manuscripts of Ram Charit Manas which was written by Tulsi Das on the opposite ghats on river mata Ganga. Hence, this palace still conducts 31 days long traditional Ramleela play based on the Ram Chait Manas during the month of Ashwin (mostly October). The tourist are allowed to only a small portion of this palace but breathing the air of such an important place, makes you feel blessed. There is another museum which is accessible to toutist, dont miss the Indian calendar wall clock called “Dharm Ghadi” built by an Indian astronomer in 1852.
9. Take a trip to Sarnath for Dhamek Stupa: Sarnath, located about 15kms from Assi Ghat or 8kms from Varanasi, has great significance for Hinduism, Jainism and Buddhism. The Dhamek Stupa in Sarnath is the place where Gautam Buddha gave his 1st Vipassana teachings after achieving enlightenment. Hence, this place has significant spiritual energy and people following Buddhism across the world, come to seek blessings at this place. While we were here, we saw groups of people from Vietnam, Sri Lanka, Korea and Thailand. As a way to feel gratefull to this place, many of these country’s have created Buddhist tempels around the Dhamek Stupa. Dhamek Stupa also has a beautiful history of evoking spiritualism wherein after change of evil heart, King Ashok became Buddhist and built a 61m tall temple in front of the stupa. But it also has a painful history of destruction by Qutb ud-Din Aibak who mercilessly destropyed the tall templeand vihars (places for monks). I doubt if the people were spared in this massacre.
10. Experience the cremation at Manikarnika Ghat: Kashi is the place where Hindus come to die and we literally die to die here. This aint no joke. Manikarnika ghat is where continous cremation pyres burn with estimation of about 80 bodies burnt every day on a normal day.
11. Take blessing at gravity defying Ratneshwar temple: Kashi is a place of wonder and Ratneshwar temple is a beautiful exmaple of that. This gravity defying temple is leaning 9degrees (leaning tower of Pisa is just 7 degrees). Located on the Manikarnika Ghat, this 500years old temple is submerged in water most of the time. Infact its garbhagriha is usually submerged in water due to the leaning effect.
12. Take a walk in primitive Thatheri bazaar: This unique primitive Thetheri bazaar has everything one can think of; the sumptous food, heart melting mithai (sweets), beautiful tiny temple homes, chandi bartan (silver utensil) shops, to everyday grocery shops, to Kashi silk sarees, to temple things and the list can go on.

What to eat in Kashi: Whatever i ate and drank here, they made me feel 1 thing; “santulan or balance”. The perfect balance of spicy to sweet to sour, perfect balance of stuffing to batter, perfect balance of food to garnish, just balanced. Also, a good street food guide is when the food’s taste is not tied to a particular shop or restautrant. Hence, most of my food list consists of only food that you can eat at most places.

1. Kachori chaat – Kachori is a staple across north India, however the Kachori’s from Varanasi hit very different. While Deena Chaat Bhandar, Ram Bhandar, and Kashi Chat Bhandar. But in my exprience I ate kachoris at small stalls in any gallis and still the Kachoris were unmatched to anything outside of this place. Kachori chana in a morning breakfast item for Kashi’ites.
2. Lassi – Most Lassi joints in this city still serve hand churned Lassis that a delicious to the core. The Lassis are simple with thick curd, milk and rabdi, probably topped with some fresh fruits or dry fruits. I frequently had this in afternoon when we had long walks or no time to eat. I loved the lassi at the Blue Lassi Shop near Assi Ghat. There is another legendary also called Blue Lassi Shop near Dashashwamedh Ghat.
3. Malaiyyo – This unique winter breakfast item is a milk froth made fropm Kesar milk. Extremely sumptious and not at all heavy as it may look. This is a unique dish to the city and one should leave without tasting the goodness of Malaiyyo. Try Malaiyyo at Shreeji Sweets & Milk shop in Thatheri Bazaar.
4. Rabdi – This milk dish needs no introduction and one must consume at every excuse one can find. Rabdi is a thickned milk and cures all kinds of heart aches.
5. Baati Chokha – This hearty street food snack from Bihar features baked balls of flour (baati) served with spicy mashed eggplants and potatoes (chokha). It’s topped with coriander, mint chutney, onions and chaat masala. Try Baati Chokha at Pallavi. Go empty stomach as this thing is heavy. We had sattu and paneer baati served with chokha, achar and kheer.
6. Paan – Kashi is paan or famously known as banarasi paan is a popular after food digestive food for Indias. Even Bollywood has paid a tribute to paan of this city. Try it at any decent looking shop and you will not be disappointed.

Where to stay in Kashi:

Kashi has some beautiful and budget friendly options to offer for tourist stay. If you prefer luxury hotels located on the ghats check out Brijrama, Guleri Kothi, and Amritara Suryauday Haveli. For medium expense stay options on ghats check out Palace on Ganges, Ilika Stays, and Dwivedi palace on steps. For budget friendly options on the ghats check out Live Free Hostel (I had a comfortable stay in their private room facility) and Bedzzz Varanasi.

How to reach Kashi:

In the east of Uttar Pradesh, India’s most populous state, Varanasi is well connected to other parts of India by bus, train and air. To or from Delhi, trains take between 8 and 13 hours; flights to many cities in India take off from the airport, 24km (15 miles) northwest of town.

Visual Tour of Kashi: